You'll be lucky to score one of the four bedrooms at Alice Inn, designed and run by Irish-Greek architect John Consolas on a quiet backstreet of Plaka, the pretty old-town district. Better still, take over the whole house. Each room is decorated with a mix of flea-market finds and family heirlooms; even the smaller ones are completely charming. Best of all is the top-floor Harry Belafonte suite, with a large roof terrace for gazing at the Acropolis. Help-yourself breakfasts (pancakes, eggs Benedict, freshly baked cakes) are served in the kitchen-diner or shady back garden.